Category Archives: Kayaking

Debriefing the Other Tramps

Tongariro Northern Circuit

tnc
Buy Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk Topo Set – €3

Admittedly: The walk can be done in two days. But…

That would be turning into a raceway. If the weather is good, then the excursions to the Taranaki Falls and the Tama Lakes are indispensable. Since most of the track is very open, views from anywhere can be pretty spectacular, but these two sights should not be missed.

The Crossing itself passes between the two mountain peaks of Tongariro and Ngauruhoe and the question remains whether to climb these peaks. If the day’s section is only from Mangatepopo to Oturere or vice versa, then there would be time to attempt one peak. Ngauruhoe being much higher (2291 m) is more tempting than Tongariro (1978 m). However the surface of Ngauruhoe is loose scree and there is a real danger of snow falling at any time of the year, so that Tongariro is the better bet.

The condition of the “Hole” (Mangatepopo – Whakapapa) should be considered carefully. Recent rain will make this section almost impassable and in this case it is advisable to start or finish the track at the Mangatepopo carpark. Just make sure to arrange transport before starting the track. The bus that drops off the day hikers for the Crossing leaves at around 8:30. Read more…

Epilogue: Debriefing the Great Walks – Whanganui River Journey

Index

I’ve dealt with the kayak operators in the previous blog, now’s the time to look at my (our) side of things.

Travel Planning

Whanganui River Journey
Buy Whanganui River Journey GPS track here for €5
Although the general suggestion is to do either Taumarunui to Pipiriki (150 km) in five days or start further down the river at Whakahoro and do the trip in three days, these are very condensed trips with little room for error. I think the worst mistake made was to schedule the first overnight stop in Poukaria.

The big problem here is that leaving Cherry Grove just after 11:00 for a 36 km leg is just too much for one day. The kayaking alone takes a good five hours, so only two rather restricted stops could be scheduled in order to get to Poukaria by dusk. Also, this is the roughest part of the whole trip, with at least two major rapids, the result of which is that everything is wet, and Poukaria Campsite lies so close to the river that overnight drying of kit is impossible.

A much better strategy would have been to schedule the stopover in Ohinepane (22 km), after taking at least one full lunch break beforehand, and an afternoon stop at Laurens Lavender (1381 River Rd, Aukopae 3991, laurenslavender.com, signposted on the river) for a cuppa and a slice of cake. This would mean a mid afternoon arrival at the campsite, after which everything could be dried, the dry bags repacked, etc. The following day Whakahoro could be reached after 35 km – again about five hours of paddling – but this time with a departure at around 9:00 (or even earlier) and two breaks along the way and arrival at the campsite by around 4:00 which seems realistic. Here again I would make better use of the Blue Duck Café (blueduckstation.co.nz, evening meals by prior arrangement) here to get some fresh food to eat, and of the location of the campsite and hut on higher ground just outside of the valley proper to allow the gear to dry. Read more…

Epilogue: Debriefing Kayak Operators

Index

A question that has been asked, and will no doubt continue to be asked, was: “What kayak operators can you recommend?” I directly experienced eight in all (with queries being sent to another five), so while that may not be enough for a double-blind, randomly assigned, controlled clinical study, but it is sufficient to glean a few pointers from. Read more…

49. Paihia

Tuesday, March 31: Sunny with a few clouds and a bit of a breeze on the bay

Kayaking: Paihia – Bay of Islands – Waitangi, 5.7 km

Centabay

In the night the keys had slipped off the towel rail and dropped onto the floor among the stuff packed there and it took a little while of thinking to work out where they had to be. Was awoken by the manager to get me to move the car and I moved it onto the street where a 120 minute slot was free. About the only business that had to be transacted was printing out the DOC ticket for the walk tomorrow and since the library had banished all wifi users to the park I tried a commercial operator in an “adult” shop. First computer had something wrong with the graphics card, but the second printed out the pdf just fine for $1.6. A couple of things had to be bought for the hike and I thought that – just for the two days – I would opt for bread and have sandwiches made up for both days’ lunches. Short inquiry at the i-site about safe parking – apparently possible at either a camping ground or the backpackers. Read more…

42. Tauranga – Whitianga

Tuesday, March 24: Changeable, with some dark clouds and rain around the middle of the day; starting and finishing sunny

On the Beach Backpackers, 46 Buffalo Beach Rd, Whitianga 3542, tel.: +64 7 866 5380, double/twin as single in a unit shared with just one other party; kitchen, living room, TV, fridge, large balcony with BBQ equipment shared (BBH, $38 + $3)

Liz gave me the whole rundown of her neighbourhood dispute this morning before I left; in any case I was in no particular hurry to get going. The plastic shop did in fact carry a salt-and-pepper shaker set but didn’t have any in stock; the cutlery set looked just as useful as the stuff I already had; but for $4 I got two cosmetic containers which were just larger than my filters and a snap top bottle obviously designed for some sort of liquid that could also be used for salt (the pepper part was not so important). Filled the tank & then I was on my way. Read more…

31. Rotorua – Whakatane

Friday, March 13: A little cloudy to begin with, but very sunny & warm in Whakatane

Windsor Lodge, 10 Merritt St., Whakatane 3120, tel.: +64 7 308 8040, double as single, shared facilities (BBH, $45 + $3)

There was just a little bit of business to be cleared up after the excitement of yesterday. A trip to the closer and smaller i-site just revealed that I had to go to the main office and speak with Tyra-Lee which I promptly did, and told my story of how the boatie jumped in and took me back. Got my money back, and a promise that there would be consequences. Read more…

10. Tieke Kainga – Pipiriki: Whanganui River Journey 5

Friday, February 20: Sunny, warm, with a few clouds

Kayaking: 22.1 km

Sue & Simon’s

GPS Tour

The rooster crowed at about 7:30, and I got up to boil some water for what pitiful drowned remains of the coffee were left. Not much else left for breakfast, a couple of muesli bars and an egg. Got Rebecca to give us her email address and everyone was off before we had finished packing, all except for Andrea, who didn’t want to be left to leave last, but then a couple of canoeists turned up who were leaving later from the lodge (Bridge to Nowhere Lodge). We were underway and soon overtaking the others.

We passed the Ngaporo Campsite at about the halfway point at around 11:00; Pea wanted to get a bit further before descending on the last remaining food. I spotted a shingle bank not very far past the campsite and we decided to finish off as much as we could there. Read more…

9. John Coull – Tieke Kainga: Whanganui River Journey 4

Thursday, February 19: Fog in the morning, still warm, sunny after the fog had lifted, with increasing cloud cover during the day

Kayaking: 32.5 km

Tieke Kainga Marae (DOC, $32)

GPS Tour

Most of the partying crowd were up very early and gone correspondingly quickly. We waved goodbye to them from the hut, as it overlooks the river. We were among the last to leave just after 9:30. I made sure the camera was pointed in the right direction before loading the front dry bag onto the boat, and set it going. Roger & Jackie turned up and made a stop at the hut, and they gave us a push off.

We made pretty good progress throughout the morning, missing one stop that we just wanted to have a short break at (Mangawaiiti Campsite, damned river maps, damned signs) and continued on to the landing where the track to the Bridge to Nowhere starts from (Mangapurua). Lots of boats tied up at a very slippery limestone outcrop, which normally would have required some kayaking practice to get off and on at. Landing in the sheltered covelet, Pea tried to get out, couldn’t hold the boat with her left leg, and promptly the whole caboodle capsized. Managed to get Pea to hang onto the boat while others pulled us ashore. Got out myself, had the boat tied up by a helpful gent, then started on the process of baling the boat out. Read more…

8. Whakahoro – John Coull: Whanganui River Journey 3

Wednesday, February 18: Some fog at dawn, clearing to fine and sunny

Kayaking: 35.2 km

John Coull Hut (DOC, $32)

GPS Tour

Whakahoro dawn
Dawn over the Whanganui River at Whakahoro, with fog

Snoozed until about 7:30, then I had to get up to take the sunrise time lapse in the valley. A bit of low cloud or fog about, but the river was mostly free, so I set the camera going and returned for breakfast. Had the water boiling as Pea was getting up, then it was the favourites of egg, muesli bar, the remains of the crackers and coffee.

Moving all of the stuff back down again proved to be simpler that moving it up. I seemed to miss just one blue dry bag but while Pea was back at the hut trying to find it I found it in the boat. By the time she was back, nearly everything was in the boat. Roger & Jackie turned up just as we were about to go & they took a couple of pictures of us before they took off up to the Blue Duck for a coffee. Read more…

7. Poukaria – Whakahoro: Whanganui River Journey 2

Tuesday, February 17: Very dense fog on the river to begin with, clearing to fine and hot

Kayaking: 23.8 km

Whakahoro Bunkroom (DOC, $10)

GPS Tour

I had gotten the most of a night’s sleep and was awake again by 6:00. The valley was shrouded in very dense fog and I wondered what a time lapse would look like if I could get the camera to focus. It continued to lighten, some voices chirped up and eventually others were awake and up and about. Of course, everything was wet, and my legs were peppered with sandfly bites from the short time between arriving, putting up the tent, and getting the deet and spiderman suit on.

No signs of rat predation so either the rats do not try to get into the dry bags, or they are in insignificant numbers. Read more…