Tag Archives: Tongariro Northern Circuit

Debriefing the Other Tramps

Tongariro Northern Circuit

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Buy Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk Topo Set – €3

Admittedly: The walk can be done in two days. But…

That would be turning into a raceway. If the weather is good, then the excursions to the Taranaki Falls and the Tama Lakes are indispensable. Since most of the track is very open, views from anywhere can be pretty spectacular, but these two sights should not be missed.

The Crossing itself passes between the two mountain peaks of Tongariro and Ngauruhoe and the question remains whether to climb these peaks. If the day’s section is only from Mangatepopo to Oturere or vice versa, then there would be time to attempt one peak. Ngauruhoe being much higher (2291 m) is more tempting than Tongariro (1978 m). However the surface of Ngauruhoe is loose scree and there is a real danger of snow falling at any time of the year, so that Tongariro is the better bet.

The condition of the “Hole” (Mangatepopo – Whakapapa) should be considered carefully. Recent rain will make this section almost impassable and in this case it is advisable to start or finish the track at the Mangatepopo carpark. Just make sure to arrange transport before starting the track. The bus that drops off the day hikers for the Crossing leaves at around 8:30. Read more…

35. Gisborne – Wairoa: Te Reinga Falls

Tuesday, March 17: Cloudy the whole day with occasional showers and a little cooler

Jude’s (airbnb, $48)

The storm had passed by last night without too much to notice it by, except the rain, and certainly the winds were much weaker than had been predicted. I had my breakfast and then Ethel had to go to the doctor’s about the fall that she had had last week, and visit a friend as well, so Mischief, the dog, the attention-seeking cat, and myself were left to our own devices.

I started off by getting a couple of pictures into the blog posts, mainly of the Tongariro Crossing. All the posts had been scheduled for publication right up to departure date, and three more had been transcribed onto the computer, so all I need to do when I have another technical day is to find some photos for them and schedule them as well. Read more…

31. Rotorua – Whakatane

Friday, March 13: A little cloudy to begin with, but very sunny & warm in Whakatane

Windsor Lodge, 10 Merritt St., Whakatane 3120, tel.: +64 7 308 8040, double as single, shared facilities (BBH, $45 + $3)

There was just a little bit of business to be cleared up after the excitement of yesterday. A trip to the closer and smaller i-site just revealed that I had to go to the main office and speak with Tyra-Lee which I promptly did, and told my story of how the boatie jumped in and took me back. Got my money back, and a promise that there would be consequences. Read more…

17. Ohakune – Auckland

Friday, February 27: Cloudy in the morning, clearing on the way north, just a bit of rain in Taumarunui, which we missed, and rain visible in the distance around Hamilton

Chinara’s

Was up before 8:00 to finish off the bread from yesterday with what remained of the ham, and a can of Watties baked beans with sausages for breakfast. Simon called over with a final loaf of bread which I saved up for the bus trip.

The rest of the morning was spent packing and transcribing another two days of the diary. Managed to transfer €500 from a savings account to the Visa card, and with a daily limit on cash withdrawals of €600, I should be able to get the $1200 for the car together in cash for tomorrow. Read more…

15. Ohakune

Wednesday, February 25: Changeably cloudy throughout most of the day, and still warm

Danni’s

Slept almost completely through until 8:30 when Simon knocked on the door with a fresh loaf of his bread. Breakfast had to be improvised from what else was to be found apart from the eggs & butter I have over from last week. Some wheatbix were found, some milk and sugar, so the day could start.

The butter, it must be remarked here, was rock solid out of the fridge and still maintains its buttery appearance and taste despite living for 10 days in my sealable plastic container and melting at least twice during the kayak trip. This must be the test of tests for all concerned, both butter and container. Read more…

14. Oturere – Tongariro Crossing – Mangatepopo – Whakapapa: Tongariro Northern Circuit 3/4

Tuesday, February 24: Rain overnight clearing to foggy and then sunny with patchy clouds

Tramping: 20.9 km

Danni’s ($200 for 3 nights)

Nick had taken one bed of the triple that I had occupied and, unfortunately, he snored – mainly when on his back, so waking him & telling him to turn over produced a significant improvement. Towards morning the snoring also started in the side position, and not much else could be done, but poke him every now and then.

Tongariro Valley
Looking back over the Tongariro Valley at sunrise
Just before 6:00 people started getting up. Two dormitories were separate from the kitchen but not by much and the third was in the bedsitter, so to speak. I boiled some water for coffee and had some salami, cracker and muesli bars for breakfast before packing my stuff outside. It looked like I would be starting the tramp today with Nick & Slater, all the others except Khalil were going in the other direction.

We pushed off around 7:30 and looking back from the first hill was a photo opportunity for another time: Sunrise over the Tongariro Valley, with fog covering the river and the sun from behind. What a pity that we had to push forward. After a longer plain we reached a lava tongue and from here onwards it was pretty steep uphill until the Crossing was reached. I left the other two behind at this point as I was coming into stride. Read more…

13. Waihohonu – Oturere: Tongariro Northern Circuit 2

Monday, February 23: Rain overnight, overcast at first, clearing to fine with a few clouds and warm. Later very changeable

Tramping, 7.7 km

Oturere Hut (DOC, $32)

Ngauruhoe promised to give a bit of a sunrise so I set up the A470 with infinite focus and it seemed to work OK. We were later for breakfast than the others who were headed directly to Whakapapa because their bus was to pick them up at 2:00.

Lava Tongue
Track across a pretty barren lava tongue between Waihohonu and Oturere
Had some of the bread and salami for breakfast, with 2 double coffees with condensed milk for breakfast, then packed my stuff together and spent some time discussing this & that with Khalil, Nick & Slater, who were all headed in the same direction. Eventually we decided to move off.

The path today traverses a number of lava flows, albeit with different vegetations. The first couple were mountain beech and very full of epiphytes. I took a number of pictures of small berries in red and purple. We stopped briefly at a river, and then moved into the more recent volcanic/alpine communities. At this point I decided that I had reached my warm-up point and set off at my preferred pace, which was considerably faster than that of my companions. I made a point of photographing the landscapes, and still I was almost an hour ahead of the others. Read more…

12. Whakapapa – Waihohonu: Tongariro Northern Circuit 1

Sunday, February 22: A bit cloudy to begin with, less cloud during the day and quite warm

Tramping, 21.8 km

Waihohonu Hut (DOC, $32)

Managed to beat the compass/alarm this morning and even managed a shower. After all the work of tidying up Danni’s place opposite I wasn’t really expecting Simon to be up and he wasn’t. After the shower I made my own breakfast of muesli, 2 fried eggs and coffee. Packed the loaf of bread in with the rest of the food for the hike.

Got most of the stuff into the suitcase and dragged it down the hall, and was in good time for the bus. Two German women were coming along for the ride, one just to do the crossing, the other, Ina from Kiel was doing the circuit, albeit in clockwise direction. The bus trip was provided by Dempsey’s Buses via the Station Lodge, for $30 in cash, which I presumed to be a return ticket. Further passengers were collected along the way. After the turnoff there was a very dusty old dirt track, and at the stop everyone except me and Ina got off. Read more…

Off to New Horizons

Cathedral Rock, Waimangu.
Cathedral Rock, Waimangu. Static. For the last time?

Nau mai, haere mai!

Time to start the blog up again.

Journey to Te Ika-a-Māui is the next project, a trip to the North Island of New Zealand, arriving on February 11 in the wee minutes of the morning and leaving on April 7, 2015. There is still a lot to see and do.

First and foremost on the programme are the remaining Great Walks of the North Island, the Whanganui River Journey and the Tongariro Northern Circuit. Twice on previous visits have I tried to go over the Tongariro Crossing, but to no avail. Having more time this time around and a better season for mountain climbing, this should be doable at some point. Read more…