Thursday, March 19: Cloudy at first with variations during the day; some sun

Tramping: Waikaremoana Great Walk, Waiopaoa – Marauiti – Waiharuru – Whanganui Bay: 26.6 km

Whanganui Bay Hut (DOC, $32)

I was up with the sun and fairly much ready to go within an hour or so. Hadn’t got much sleep due to the snorers (but some at least, when they turned on their sides they were silent) and not even the earplugs were very effective. At least it had not been cold, so that t-shirt and spiderman outfit were not really both necessary. Testimony for a €15 sleeping bag.

The first part of the track was fairly muddy which agreed with my memory, and the turnoff to the falls was soon reached. I dumped my pack at the campsite a short distance off the main track just in case it rained – there was at least a cooking shelter there, and then took off up the track with the tripod and A470. Shot a short time lapse of me clambering across the tight wire (plenty of water this time) then I had to do it with tripod and camera through the belt. Two 5’ time lapses of the falls – the first from as far away as I could get, and the second in portrait a little closer. Then it was back to the vantage point where the river could be shot as a pastoral scene.

Back down to the main track I came across Kevin, then the Christchurch couple Steve & Maria and gave them all tips about getting across the river. At the campsite I was met by a tramper (German? very large pack) who was heading south.

The next part of the track was very old and mainly slow going with a number of ups and downs. I took a couple of snapshots with the SX120, wherever I could with the pol filter and was wondering what my English and Scottish friends were up to. They turned up just before the baches, when I was beginning to wonder how much further it was to Marauiti. Anyway, we stopped and chatted for a bit and then I was through the baches to the campsite and then over the steep little hill to Marauiti Hut for lunch.

Looks like they’ve taken out the gas heaters that were installed here and at Waiharuru and replaced them with regular fire places. In any case I can recall Henry’s entry in the Marauiti log book that the heater didn’t work particularly well.

Now it was a question of what I should aim for for the night. After the compass had reset itself I got it back on track and left Marauiti at 1:40, and it was then 1½ hours (2 on the sign) to Waiharuru, so I was there very early, and no one at home, except for ¼ of a small bottle of apparently vodka. Left it there for whoever was desperate enough. Waiharuru is a nice hut, and very modern, but unfortunately that doesn’t include sound dampened isolation cells for snorers. Whanganui seemed doable, even if it wasn’t initially signed. With at least one snorer to share the oversized all-in-one dormitory with I thought that that was the best bet.

Tapuaenui campsite was the next stop along this “Kiwi Wall”. I met another six trampers headed for Waiharuru, so while it wouldn’t have been crowded it might have been loud. Arrived there after ¾ hour (1½ signed) and from there it was another ¾ hour (1 signed) to Whanganui.

Was getting a bit tired by this stage (4:45) but had reached a goal in good time. This hut would be a snorer’s paradise as there are two dormitories with no doors, the dorms are open at the top, and the bunks are packed three high. There is no running water in the living/dining area, so all in all not a hut that comes up to the Great Walk standard. And at only an hour to go to the end of the track, not particularly popular – in any case I have been here alone up until now (keeping fingers crossed) – a touch of Stewart Island atmosphere.

Usual chores were performed as well as sweeping out the areas of the hut that I was planning to use, and then I decided to light a fire to keep warm. Plenty of all sizes of kindling to be found, some paper as well and then I did what I should have done yesterday: Starting with the paper and the two smallest sizes of kindling I made a pyramid and set it alight with a candle and from there just piled more and larger kindling on it until it was going. At the stage of adding the largest pieces of wood it need some blowing as the wood was still moist but now it is going like a champion.

Took a walk around and might decide on a sunrise sequence – will have no trouble getting to bed early and hopefully getting some sleep. The water taxi could be at the pickup point at around 10:00 tomorrow; if not then photography until the batteries run out. The hut started off at around 15°; the air at least feels warmer and the compass says 17.1°C @ 8:00. Will still try to see if I can get the billy to boil on the fire, as gas is running rather low. Got up to 19.3° by 8:30.